Crashing in Khujand

As our friends who are on David’s email list know, we had a “bumpy landing” in Khujand. The plane ride was fine, short and smooth, thank goodness because the plane was Soviet from the 1970s. But when we got to our apartment, our life became difficult. Our landlords are a nice, young couple. Anwar, the husband, usually takes care of the apartment, but is studying in Germany. His wife, Anisa, is hard working and sweet, but not too practical. She came to the apartment for the first time in more than a month the same time we did. She did not know how to work the key. The apartment heaters were turned off and the water pipes had frozen. We spent that night, and the next two, in a hotel. Ironically, that first night at the hotel the water stopped running after David had his shower, but I was in the middle of mine. The next morning, we had water, but the electricity went off all over town for a few hours.

The most interesting thing about the hotel is that there were two rooms. The “normal” room was heated (when the electricity worked). One wall was covered by curtains. If you pull back the curtains, you have a glass wall and door that leads into a large domed, round room, with a small table and four chairs in the middle and small windows along the edge of the dome. We never did find out what was that room’s function (supposedly when heating was not necessary), but we let our imaginations run with it for a while.

What's behind the curtain?

The mysterious room

We have been in our apartment about 10 days, Anwar is on break and is at home and has taken care of the few remaining glitches in the apartment. David is working, we are familiarizing ourselves with the city. We have some favorite restaurants and grocery stores, and we have established some routines. As usual, the initial bumps are receding. Looking back, they didn’t last long, but when you are in them, they seem to go on forever.

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